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Going to a show? Showing Rabbits can be a very rewarding experience for both young and old, and I am not talking just about winning trophies here.
This page is filled with information and tips. Here you will find instructions on how to Tattoo.. Showing Tips for the Beginner, What is a Registration Paper, and how to write for a judge.

Showing rabbits can be so much fun. To the right, is my daughter, Heather at about 12 yrs old

A way to identify your rabbits when showing them.

Hopefully this page will explain how to tattoo your rabbits.

There are many ways of tattoo'ing your rabbits and I will try to explain the clamp style tattoo'ing. I have been doing it this way since 1998, I find it very easy. Even though I use this particular method at the time, I prefer the electric/battery opperated tattoo'er for small breeds. For the larger breeds, I really didn't have a preference.

The cost of a clamp style tattoo'er ranges between and depending the brand and kind you get. The electric/battery operated tattoo'er ranges from to depending on brand and if it is electric or battery operated.

I have found that tattoo'ing rabbits by myself has been the easiest but I suggest that for the first couple that you try to do, that you have an experieced tattoo person with you.

How to Tattoo ~ lets get started
The first thing that you need to do is to decide on a numbering/lettering system that you would like to use. We use the first letter of the buck, the first letter of the doe and the number in order that this kit is in the litter, (exp; Karl bred to Daisey, 3 kit in litter would be KD3). You will want to think through the system that you want to use depending on your breeds, the size of the ears, and what will work best for you in your record keeping. *Please remember also that most tattoo pliers will only hold 5 digits.

Now that you have your system of tattoo'ing down it is time to get everything that you will needready. You will need your tattoo pliers, tattoo numbers/letters, tattoo ink, ink applicator, (q-tips work good), soft bristle tooth brush, Preperation-H, septic powder, (just in case) tissue paper or wet wipes, and rubbing alcohol.

After you have all your supplies ready to go, then I suggest getting your numbers and letters place securely into the tattoo pliers. Test the tattoo on a peice of paper first and check to make sure that the letters/numbers are in the correct position. By doing this, you can save yourself from making a mistake.

It is now time to get your rabbit out of the cage and place him/her on a sturdy flat surface. I have a permanent grooming area with a carpet square glued to a table in our rabbitry that works nicely. Once you have set your rabbit down, give him/her a quick look over for anything that should be taken care of, like toenails, correct sex, ear mites, fur mites, etc.

Now is the time to check your rabbits ear for a good place to put the tattoo. Make sure that the location you put the tattoo is not an area that has lots of blood vessels, and is not in to the fur area of the ear. It is a good idea to clean the ear surface with some rubbing alcohol to rid the ear of any surface dirt and germs before you tattoo. By the way, you are going to put the tattoo in the LEFT ear.

* Please note, that if you show your rabbits, then ARBA requires a tattoo in the left ear for identification purposes.

Now that you know exactly where you want the tattoo to go, I like putting a dab of ink directly on the ear (so that when I clamp the pliers I can see a basic idea of how the tattoo is going to look). Now squeeze the pliers firmly and hold for a second or two. If you go all the way thru the ear with the tattoo, that's ok, I actually prefer it if I do go all the way thru. After you have held it for a second, let go of the pressure and make sure that the tattoo looks good. If there was a problem with the tattoo, then put some septic powder on the ear and retry your tattoo in a few days, (don't apply any more ink). If all went well, and it should have, then now you would want to apply some more ink and rub it into the tattoo holes with the toothbrush. Don't rub to hard or it can make the ear bleed more than usual. Make sure that you get the ink in there really good though. I would rather use to much ink than not enough and have to re-do the whole process over again.

After you have the ink in the tattoo'ed holes really good apply a dab of Prep-H to the area, front and back of ear to help seal the holes. You are probably thinking isn't Prep-H for hemroids, why yes it is, but it is used for the reduction of blood vessels, therefor if you use it after you tattoo, you are less likely to have a tattoo bleed out the ink or have the ear bleed to much if you nicked a blood vessel. Prep-H also has a soothing feel to it which is welcomed by your rabbit.

Wow, you are almost done. Now take a peice of tissue or a wet wipe and carefully wipe out the excess ink and prep-H so that you can see your tattoo job. If the ear starts to bleed a bit after you wipe, just sprinkle some septic powder on the area and leave alone.

Now that you are done, pour some rubbing alcohol in a container and let your tattoo equipment that you just used soak for a few minutes. This will help clean your equipment as well as disinfect it so that it is ready for the next time you tattoo.

Well Congratulations! You just did your first tattoo and it looks great.

*** Some helpful hints***

Keep your ink container away from the rabbit. Sometimes your rabbit will jump up or lunge forward and if your ink is in his/her way, you will end up with an inked rabbit.

Tattoo your rabbits at a younger age. I like to tattoo our rabbits the day that I wean them. This really helps me be able to identify them easier, especially when they may all be the same color.

If you are tattoo'ing your rabbits in the summer time, then do it in the cool part of the day. The blood isn't as thin as the hot part of the day and the rabbit will normally be less stressed if cooler.

Make sure that if you are tattoo'ing more than one rabbit, you wash your hands and arms making sure not to spread in germs or get any ink on to the next rabbit.

This is one of my favorite images
You will find on this Page, a few helpful suggestions on the subject of showing. This page also includes the Do's and Don't's

© Copyright Rochelle Cooley 2000

Wow, My first Show, What can I expect?
Congratulations on taking the first step in showing rabbits, you're going to a show. Now what should you expect when you go. Hopefully this will help you out some so that it won't be so confusing. Keyword here; Hopefully, hehe!

If you are going to the show with no rabbits, just to check it out and to look for a rabbit that you may possibly want, then this is what I would do.

I would go with an attitude that you are going to be there all day. When you get there, walk around and meet some people and ask them questions about their breeds, if that breed is of interest to you, (Whatever you do, don't buy the first rabbit that you see for sale. Look around). Find out who is judging the breeds that you are interested in and watch them being judged, and even ask a question or 2 to the judge. Most judges are always more than willing to answer a question/s. By watching the breeds getting judged, you make pick up a pointer or two on what to look for that is good and what is bad in showing that breed. I know, my kids used to say, Judges ought to judge them for how cute they are, unfortunatly, thats not the way it is done, because almost all rabbits are cute.

Make sure that you also talk to the rabbit equipment dealer that is at the show about the cage size you will need as well as the other equipment that is going to need to be purchased, like water bottles, crocks, feeders, carriers, etc., unless you already have it at home and are just waiting the arrival of a bunny to fill it.

*Please Remember - 1 Cage = 1 Rabbit Period!!, (unless it is a doe with a litter)

If you already have a rabbit and this is your first show for showing, go and have fun. Going to a rabbit show is a whole other world. It is exciting to see all of the other rabbits and people and the hussle bussle of a show is like no other experience that I have ever had.

Some tips on showing for the beginer. When you first get there, check in and find out who is judging your breed and in what order are the breeds being done. This way you will know if your breed is going up on the table 1st, last, or somewhere inbetween. It is a good idea that if you are not one of the first 2 breeds up to the table, that you constantly check on where the judging is at. By this, I mean, what breed is on the table now and keep that in mind. Know which 2 breeds is scheduled on the table just before your breed. This will help you on knowing when to listen up for the calling up of your breed better. While you are waiting for your breed to be called up, check over your rabbit to make sure that all is fine, and groom your rabbit if needed. Make sure that you check the tattoo in the ear to make sure that it is still there. So many times, we have gotton to a show, (and we have shown for years), just to find that the tattoo that I did last week, has disappeared. If that has happened, hurry up and re-tattoo it if you have the equipment, or go find someone who does and could redo it for you. In this case, be prepared to offer the person a $1 for their services.

If you still have time, while waiting to have your rabbits judge, go an talk to some of the breeders. Ask some of the breeders in the same breed, questions that you may have wondered about. We have been raising rabbits for 13 yrs now, and I still have questions from time to time.

Most of all, have fun and realize you have just been bitten by the Show Fever Bug. Once you have gone to one show, you can't wait till the next one. You will think that you are going nuts if you can't get to another show, and fast.

Good Luck at the show. If you ever show in Oklahoma, Missouri or Arkansas, look us up. We would be happy to meet you.

The DO's of Showing

Some of the Do's when showing are very simple while others can take some thinking of.

1. Do remember to check the weather the night before so that you will know whether or not to bring anything extra for the rabbits, yourself or your car.

2. Do remember to bring a copy of the entry form so that it will make it easier in case of a mistake for pre-entry shows. For day of show entries, bring a list of the rabbits and the ear #'s so that it will go faster filling out the forms.

3. Get to the show in plenty of time before it starts so that you are not rushed. Your rabbits can feel your tension and will react in a different manner, IMO.

4. Bring some kind of treat for your rabbit to munch on. Remember that even though we are not stressed from the strange surroundings, our rabbits may feel it a bit, and would probably enjoy a hay cube, some grass hay or a slice of apple or carrot and be sure to bring something for them to drink from.

5. Bring your tattoo kit for those tattoo's that always seem to disappear at the wrong time.

6. Do try to get a good nights sleep. Rest can be the difference between having a good show day for yourself and day that you barely squint through. No sense in putting you or your animals at risk from a bad nights sleep. If you have to, take a cat nap after your breeds are done so that you can drive home safely.

7. Bring an extra empty carrier for that unexpected purchase. It is better to bring an extra empty hole than to try to squeeze 2 rabbits in one hole. Think Safety for the buns.

8. Bring a first aid kit and your grooming kit. It is better to have it on hand and not use it, than to have an emergency pop up and be lost without it.

Above all- Do remember that it is not what you won but how you won it. Please be a gracious winner and a gracious looser. We all win and loose from one show to the next. Nobody is perfect :)

The Don'ts of showing

These are what I consider the Don'ts in Showing. They are just my opinion for the most part.

1. Don't get mad and start bad mouthing the judge, just because you don't win. Remember, he/she is just a person that is giving his/her opinion of your animal on that given day.

2. Don't talk to the judge bad about a rabbit that he/she is judging. In other words, don't point out something that you see and the judge doesn't. Most people would look at this as you trying to sway the judges opinion or cheating. Remember you are not the one that holds the judging lic.

3. Don't let the judge know which animal is yours. Like saying to the judge, Remember when you gave this doe a BOB when it was only 4 months old? Look at her now. If you do this, you could have your entire entry DQ'ed from the show. I know that this sounds crazy, but I have seen it done more than once.

4. Do not fake your rabbit. This simply means, do not alter the appearance of your rabbit by plucking stray white hairs, putting anything on the toenails to make them match or to make darker, etc. If caught, it means the Disqualification of your entire entry at the show.

5. Don't blame anyone for you missing your class of rabbits. You need to pay attention to where the judging is at for your breed. Listen to annoucements of breeds being called up. If you can't hear, then go and ask, repeatedly if you need to. Remember, missing your class is a bummer but it is not the end of the world.

6. Don't be a poor sport. Winning at all cost is not a desirable trait when it comes to show people.

Above all - Don't bring an animal to the show that is sick. It is not fair to the other owners or their rabbits for you to bring an unhealthy rabbit. Think about it if it were the other way around. You would be pretty upset if someone caused your healthy rabbits to get sick or even loose one due to the illness.

What do all these words and terms mean?
Class - Age in which the rabbit is shown under, exp; Junior, Intermediate, Senior

Junior - A rabbit under 6 months of age

Intermediate, (6/8) - A rabbit inbetween 6 - 8 months of age in the Heavy wt breeds, known as 6 class animals

Senior - A rabbit over 6 months of age for 4 class rabbits and over 8 months of age for 6 class rabbits

4-Class Rabbits - All breeds that have an ideal wt of 9#'s or less therefore constisting of Jr and Sr classes.

6-Class Rabbits - All breeds that have an ideal wt of 9#'s and over, constisting of Jr, Int,(6/8) and Senior classes.

Variety - The color in which the rabbit is, exp; Black, Opal, Broken etc.

Broken - A rabbit that has any recongnized breed color in combination with white and carrying the breed pattern.

Solid - A rabbit that basicially carries the breed color throughout its entire body. This can include selfs, shaded selfs, ticked, wide banded, agouti, pointed whites etc. Self - A self variety is a colored rabbit that is of one color over the entire body including legs, head, stomach, tail etc. these colors would include, black, blue, white and chocolate.

DQ (disqualification)- One or more deformities or blemishes, that renders the rabbit ineligable to be fit for compitition and/or registration. (DQ's can correct themselves, exp; broken tooth, abcesses, under/over weight, ear/fur mites etc.)

Faults - Imperfections within the breed or variety, not serious enough for a DQ. exp; long in type, flat, molting, etc.

Faking - Dying, plucking, trimming, clipping so as to alter the apperance of the rabbit, exp; dying toenails, white spots, plucking stray white hairs, etc.

Best of/Best Opposite of Variety - A rabbit that has won overall for its variety. This rabbit depending on breed, shall be eligable to compete for Best/Best Opp. of Breed

Best of Group - This would be where, in some breeds, a rabbit wins over all the other varieties in that grouping, such as; Netherland Dwarfs have 5 groups with several varieties within the group. Each variety is judged by itself and then the best of those varieties compete for best/best opp. of group.

Best of Breed - A rabbit that overall has the best type representing the breed by comparison in that breed

Best Opposite of Breed - A rabbit of the opposite sex from the Best of Breed rabbit that displayed best overall type for the breed by comparison in that breed.

Best in Show - A rabbit that stands out by comparison as an excellent represenative for the breed. This rabbit came closer to meeting the guidelines of the Standard of Perfection better than any other breed shown at that show

Reserve in Show - This would be the animals that is like a runner up to Best in Show. This rabbit would be a rabbit that also has won its breed class.

Legs or Leg of Grand Championship - A leg is a peice of paper issued to a rabbit when the rabbit wins a class either by 1st place, best/best opp. of variety, best/best opp of breed etc. In order for the rabbit to win a leg though even if it did win its class is to have at least 5 animals in the class, with 3 or more exhibitors.

Pedigree - A written record of a rabbits lineage for 3 generations and contain the rabbits birthday, variety and ear number.

Registration - The official recording of a rabbit and its pedigree that has been approved by a licenced registrar

Molt - An act or process of shedding or changing the fur. The baby fur is shed at approx 2 months and the first prime coat fur is fully developed at between 4-6 months of age.

Breed - A class of domestic rabbits which reproduces itself with distinctive charactoristics, such as fur, size, type, markings, etc. A breed may be divided into varieties and are generally identified by color.

This is one of my favorite images
This is what a Registration paper will look like when you get it back from ARBA. The color of the seal though may differ or you may not get a seal at all.

A Registration paper with no seal on it just means that the parents of the registered rabbit have not themselves both been registered.

A Registration paper with a Red Seal, means that both of the parents of the registered animal has been registered.

A Registration with a Red and White Seal, (as in picture above) means that both parents and all 4 of the Grandparents of the registered animal have been registered.

A Registration paper with a Red, White and Blue Seal, means that all animals for 3 generations of the registered animals registration have been registered.

Why should I get my animals Registered?

I think that this is up to you. I personally like having all of our animals registered. To me it shows that our lines met the senior requirements by either not being under nor over weight for the respective breed. It also shows that at the time of registration, the animals were free from any Disqualifications.

To me it also shows that a person takes pride in the paperwork for their animals. Showing that you go the extra mile in making sure that your paperwork on your animals is in order.

How do I go about getting my rabbit or cavy registered?

To get an rabbit or cavy registered, you must have the 3 generation pedigree with the following info on the pedigree for each and every animal on the pedigree;

Name or Ear # (either will work)for every Weight for every animal on pedigree Color of every rabbit on pedigree The rabbit or cavy that you want to get registered, must meet the minimum senior requirements for that breed, be at least 6 months old to the day or older, i.e. born on Dec 20th, 2000, you must wait until June 20th, 2001.

Some heavywt breeds will sometimes meet the senior requirements at 6 months, but sometimes you may have to wait till the rabbit is 8 months old. Just varies. The rabbit/cavy must also be free from all DQ's on the day that the Registrar looks the animal over.

It is an ARBA requirement for the show to have a Registrar there. The process of registering an animal is like this;

1. The registrar will ask you for your ARBA membership card.

2. The Registrar will ask to see the pedigree. This is so that they can make sure that the rabbit or cavy is old enough and has all the required information on the pedigree. (I have found that missing info is usually the weight of an ancestor)

3. The Registrar will then weigh the animal to make sure that the rabbit meets the min. weight required for that breed.

4. The Registrar will then examine the animal for any DQ's ranging from health type DQ's to Breed Dq's to General DQ's. Most DQ's are white spots, broken tails, (on rabbits), unmatched toenails, etc.

5. If the animal passes, then the Registrar will tattoo the right ear with a symbol or number for rabbits, or place a registration tag for cavies.

6. Then you can take your rabbit/cavy back to his/her carrier.

7. The Registrar will then fill out the registration application to be sent to ARBA. Once this paper is filled out, using the information off of your pedigree, the Registrar will ask you to look over the application and sign it.

8. The Registrar will collect .00 from you and they will send in your application. In about 3 weeks more or less, you will recieve your Registration paper in the mail. When you get your registration paper, check it over for any mistakes that might have happened. (this can happen, just had someone show me a registration that I did. The paperwork that she got back from ARBA said that the date of Registration was on ??/??/2007 ) Hello this is only 2001. Simple mistake but it can make a difference. Get it corrected. If a correction needs to be made that was your fault or the Registrars fault, then ARBA requires a Correction fee of $1.00

Questions and Answers

Q; To get championship "legs" and grand championships you must must be a member of ARBA? A; No, you don't have to be a member of any club in order to get a GC leg. You must be a member of ARBA in order to Register. Your animal must be registered in order to get a Grand Champion Certificate. (See requirements to get legs under picture of what is a leg on left hand column)

Q; Is it ARBA that does the registering?

A; No, ARBA is the club that issues the Grand Champion Certificates, Best in Certificates, and Registration paperwork but it is a Registrar, licenced by ARBA that does the intial paperwork and examination of the animal that is getting registered.

What is a Leg?
This what a Grand Champion Leg would look like. You need 3 of these legs awarded to a Rabbit or Cavy by at least 2 different judges. One of these legs must be awarded to the animal when the animal was of Senior age.

A leg is awarded to an animal for winning its class, best/best opp. of group, best/best opp. of variety, or best/best opp. of breed, or Best in Show, providing there are at least 5 animals in the class, variety, group or breed shown by at least 3 exhibitors.

Does it matter if you bought the animal and it has some legs in the previous owners name? NO, it doesn't matter whose name the legs are in. The legs are awarded to the animal, not the owner. The legs should go with the animal if the animal gets sold. Once the animal is registered though, the legs must be in the owners name. Any legs won prior to registration that are in other peoples names will still count towards granding the animal.

This is one of my favorite images

This is what an average comment card will look like. This one has lots of examples of comments on it though. Most comment cards will not have this many detailed comments unless you have a really fast writer taking the comments.

It is a good idea to get to know the comment cards so that you will be able to write down the comments as fast as the judge is saying them, (this takes a lot of practice though). I would focus on getting the more important comments down though.

First things first!

Writing for judges can be a lot of fun but can also be very stressful depending on the judge and the exhibitors.

I have taught many writing clinics to youth and adults and this is what I tell them.

First of all, I commend you for taking the effort in writing because it is not for everyone.

Let the judge know ahead of time that you are doing this for the first time.

Let the exhibitors know this also. I always tell them " Well guys, listen up to the comments because this is my first time and I may miss something". They should be there anyway listening.

Some suggestions to help you out When the judge starts off to look at the animals, I like to gather the cards for that class, writing down how many on the class on the cards and arrange them in a like a staircase stack, so that the ear # shows. Then I just stand aside and let the judge look at the rabbits. He/she will let you know when they are ready to comment. When the judge is ready and they have let you know that they are ready the judge will tell you the ear # and the placing and then he/she will start rambling about the comments. Try to get down the important comments like, long in type or good head, flat over the HQ, nicely balanced, very promising junior, snipey in the muzzle, ears to long to balance, etc., and any reason for a DQ like unmatched toenails, white toenail, butting/trapped teeth, broken tail, missing testicle, etc.

In some breeds that have a lot of points on markings or fur really need to have as many comments on those areas as possible. This way the breeder knows where the trouble spots are in the animal

Oh no, I missed what the judge said!

If the judge says something and you didn't hear him/her, don't be afraid to ask what he/she said. If they go to fast, let them know that for the first few rabbits, if they wouldn't mind them going a bit slower so that you can get the hang of the order that the judge goes in. Most will always start off in one area like the head or the type, etc. A judge will usually slow down for you. A judge can't go on without a writer, unless they want to do it all by themselves.

After about 10 or so rabbits, you will probably have the hang of it and do it like a pro.

Don't forget, practice makes perfect! BTW... I still make mistakes or miss something and I have been writing for years.

The exhibitors are complaining about my writing!

If anyone wants to complain about you missing comments, I just simply tell them, I am not perfect and if you can do a better job, then you do it!

I know it sounds mean, but not many people want to do the job in the first place, and therefore shouldn't gripe at the person who is doing it.

If they were wanting all the comments, they should have been there listening to the judge give them. A comment card is only there as a reminder of placing and some comments given.

If an exhibitor gets to abbusive, then let the show superintendant know and then let them deal with the person.